ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES

ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES

1978 | J.A. Battjes1) and J.P.F.M. Janssen2)
This chapter presents a model for predicting energy dissipation in random waves breaking on a beach. The model estimates the dissipation rate per breaking wave based on the bore height and the probability of breaking waves, which is determined by a wave height distribution with an upper cutoff influenced by local depth. The model is validated through comparisons with measurements of wave height decay and set-up on a plane beach and a beach with a bar-trough profile, showing qualitative and quantitative agreement with the data. The model's key elements include the assumption of a maximum wave height \( H_m \) that depends on local depth and wave frequency, and the use of a bore model to estimate the energy dissipation rate. The model's predictions are compared to experimental results, demonstrating its capability to predict wave height variations and mean water level changes. The model's limitations, such as the need for further refinement and the assumption of a linear relationship between wave height and dissipation, are also discussed. Overall, the model provides a useful tool for understanding and predicting wave-induced changes in mean sea level and currents in nearshore regions.This chapter presents a model for predicting energy dissipation in random waves breaking on a beach. The model estimates the dissipation rate per breaking wave based on the bore height and the probability of breaking waves, which is determined by a wave height distribution with an upper cutoff influenced by local depth. The model is validated through comparisons with measurements of wave height decay and set-up on a plane beach and a beach with a bar-trough profile, showing qualitative and quantitative agreement with the data. The model's key elements include the assumption of a maximum wave height \( H_m \) that depends on local depth and wave frequency, and the use of a bore model to estimate the energy dissipation rate. The model's predictions are compared to experimental results, demonstrating its capability to predict wave height variations and mean water level changes. The model's limitations, such as the need for further refinement and the assumption of a linear relationship between wave height and dissipation, are also discussed. Overall, the model provides a useful tool for understanding and predicting wave-induced changes in mean sea level and currents in nearshore regions.
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Understanding ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES