ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES

ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES

1978 | J.A. Battjes and J.P.F.M. Janssen
A model is developed to predict energy dissipation in random waves breaking on a beach. The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated based on a bore of similar height, while the probability of breaking waves is determined from a wave height distribution with an upper cutoff determined by local depth. The model is validated against experimental data on plane and bar-trough beaches, showing good agreement with both qualitative and quantitative features. The model accounts for wave height decay and set-up, and incorporates a probability distribution for wave heights, with a key parameter relating the rms wave height to the maximum sustainable wave height. The model also estimates the energy dissipation rate in broken waves using a bore model. The results are combined with a conventional model for wave-induced mean water level variations. The model is tested experimentally, and the results show that it can predict the main features of the data, including wave height decay and set-up. The model is capable of predicting both wave heights and mean water level variations on plane and bar-trough beaches. The model's parameters are determined based on experimental data, and the results show that the model is useful for predicting wave-induced mean sea level variations and currents in the nearshore region.A model is developed to predict energy dissipation in random waves breaking on a beach. The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated based on a bore of similar height, while the probability of breaking waves is determined from a wave height distribution with an upper cutoff determined by local depth. The model is validated against experimental data on plane and bar-trough beaches, showing good agreement with both qualitative and quantitative features. The model accounts for wave height decay and set-up, and incorporates a probability distribution for wave heights, with a key parameter relating the rms wave height to the maximum sustainable wave height. The model also estimates the energy dissipation rate in broken waves using a bore model. The results are combined with a conventional model for wave-induced mean water level variations. The model is tested experimentally, and the results show that it can predict the main features of the data, including wave height decay and set-up. The model is capable of predicting both wave heights and mean water level variations on plane and bar-trough beaches. The model's parameters are determined based on experimental data, and the results show that the model is useful for predicting wave-induced mean sea level variations and currents in the nearshore region.
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[slides and audio] ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES