Oceanography

Oceanography

2007 | Unknown Author
The review of "Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters" by Leo H. Holthuijsen provides a comprehensive overview of the state-of-the-art in modeling wind-generated ocean waves, particularly in coastal areas. The book covers observational techniques, statistical descriptions of the sea surface, deep- and shallow-water wave theory, and the development of models for wave generation and propagation. It emphasizes the importance of the shallow-water wave model SWAN, which is widely used in numerical models for coastal waves, currents, sediment transport, and morphological change. The review highlights the clarity of mathematical developments, practical information for engineers and modelers, and extensive illustrations. The book is praised for its well-structured chapters, supplementary information, and historical context, making it a valuable resource for scientists and engineers interested in wave dynamics and numerical wave models.The review of "Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters" by Leo H. Holthuijsen provides a comprehensive overview of the state-of-the-art in modeling wind-generated ocean waves, particularly in coastal areas. The book covers observational techniques, statistical descriptions of the sea surface, deep- and shallow-water wave theory, and the development of models for wave generation and propagation. It emphasizes the importance of the shallow-water wave model SWAN, which is widely used in numerical models for coastal waves, currents, sediment transport, and morphological change. The review highlights the clarity of mathematical developments, practical information for engineers and modelers, and extensive illustrations. The book is praised for its well-structured chapters, supplementary information, and historical context, making it a valuable resource for scientists and engineers interested in wave dynamics and numerical wave models.
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Understanding Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters